3 days of adventures out there
Written and visual records from the coast of the Seto Inland Sea and its surroundings
I'm starting to write this blog post on my way to Yokohama, after having spent a few good days in Hiroshima and the surrounding area. Especially in these last 3 days, I had the opportunity to visit Fukuyama, Tomonoura, Onomichi, Takehara, an island full of rabbits, and other places I don't even remember.
All this around the Seto Inland Sea, a region that encompasses the islands of Honshu, Shikoku and Kyushu.
For anyone interested, below I created a map with the route I followed.
Day 01
Fukuyama
Starting from where it all began, Fukuyama. Last Monday, the day after NEMOPHILA's incredible show in Hiroshima, I went to Fukuyama, a quiet town (apparently) in the Hiroshima Prefecture.
Right from the Fukuyama Station's exit you can see Fukuyama's Castle.

Basically, I used this city as a base to explore the other cities mentioned above, so I didn't explore it that much, and that's all I have to say. 😂
Abuto Kannon

The first stop was at this curious temple on the edge of a rocky cliff. Unfortunately, you can't take photos from up there, but the view of the sea is surreal.

Tomonoura

Something I didn't know: this city was used as inspiration for the film (which I haven't seen yet) Ponyo, yes, the one from Studio Ghibli.









It's very curious to walk through the streets of small towns in Japan (not that I've visited many of them), many things seem to have stopped in time, but still find their place in the midst of certain modernities. For example, old houses that have been converted into small stores. Also notable is the silence of the countryside that echoes through the narrow streets of the city.






Boats and lots of boats too.



Day 02
Onomichi

Part of the city grew towards the hillside, which reminded me a bit of a favela.
On this day it rained a lot throughout the morning, and the rain continued from my journey from Fukuyama until I arrived in Onomichi. Eventually, like everything else in life, the rain stopped for a while, but they forgot to tell the cats that live in this city. 🐈





The peace and tranquility of those who have no bills to pay
This city is known for many things, one of which is the stray cats that live there. Every corner you turn, you expect to see a feline. 猫 (neko, cat in Japanese) is probably the most frequently used word there. 😹




















For lunch, Okonomiyaki! A very countryside restaurant, small and "cheap", well, cheap by the standards of big cities in Japan.

Great music playing on the radio too!


The giant lemon bench (View from the Tatara bridge)
Apparently, Ikuchi Island is a big lemon producer (although I saw more orange trees on the street, but that's ok) so up there on a mountain with an incredible view there is an observatory and a rather large lemon.




Funaori Seto
At one point during our trip, I noticed a current in the sea around a small island. It is basically a strait only 300 meters (if my translation is correct) wide, sandwiched between Kiri (road) and Monojima (island). Due to the influence of the tidal range of the Seto Inland Sea, currents of up to 9 knots flow back and forth.

This sign here explains it better, you just need to read it:

Kirosan Observatory Park
The view from up there is surreal, at least that's what I saw in the photos. Unfortunately, I couldn't see anything from up there, due to heavy fog and rain.
Here's a picture of a giant turtle, that's all I could see up there. 😂

Day 03
Takehara ~ Honmachi
In Takehara, I went to Honmachi, a historic town/neighborhood. In a way similar to Tomonoura.
Here again, silence prevailed on the streets. If it weren't for the occasional cars that passed by, or the postman on his small electric motorbike, or the cell phone I was using to take photos, you could say that I had gone back in time.








Mihara
A short lunch break in Mihara, where for the first time I saw okra sushi. 😅

Just wanted to record this here!
Oh, but I almost forgot about that radical biker with his duck on the back. 😄

Mt. Kurotaki
When I was planning this trip, I saw some options of what to do around Hiroshima Prefecture, options of not so touristy spots, and this hill caught my attention.
When I arrived at the parking lot to start the climb, I dropped my cell phone on the ground. I thought to myself, "Oh, now I'm screwed," but then I thought, "It's okay, I have my old cell phone as a backup in my backpack..." but then I thought, "...which it's completely out of battery because the last time I charged it was in Brazil." By pure luck, the victim of my carelessness only suffered a scratch, it didn't even bend, so it's great!

Anyway, back to what matters, Mt. Kurotaki.
As you climb up, you come across these bamboo sticks and also a baseball bat. Either this is for you to lean on during the journey or it is for playing baseball. I looked everywhere and didn't see any baseball fields, so it must really be for you to lean on during the ascent and descent. Or, who knows, what if you meet a bear on the way up?

Anyway, damn how I keep typing nonsense sometimes, so here I am in Yokohama trying to remember the important things to share.
Oh yes, it's not a tiring climb, as long as you're not wearing 2 coats and thick pants. Still, it's easy to climb.

As it had rained in the last few days and probably in the morning there, the ground was a bit slippery in some parts, especially in the steepest parts, and, combined with the leaves from the trees on the ground, any slip could be complicated.

But the view from up there is totally worth it! Surreal!



Just like down there, there's no baseball field up there either, so those bats must be something to lean on, since there aren't even bears on this island, apparently.
Ōkunoshima - rabbit's island
I went down Mt. Kurataki, and there is a port nearby to catch a boat to Rabbit Island. I ran to buy the tickets and was the last one to get on the boat.
The travel time to the island is short, around 15 minutes and you are there.

This island is just full of rabbits, like, a lot of them! I've never seen so many rabbits in my life, and their behavior is quite interesting. Out of nowhere they run towards you thinking you have food to offer them, some of them realize right away that this is not the case and just ignore you, others are a little more hopeful, but they are all very cute. 😂









The only thing that there is more than rabbits on this island is rabbit poop. 😂 It's simply impossible not to step in it, so much so that there is a station to clean your shoes after your visit.
This island is also home to the ruins of what was once a poison gas factory in the 1920s, a secret project of the Japanese government at the time. There is also a small museum dedicated to poison gas, the idea of which is to show that Japan was not only a victim during World War II, but also an aggressor, in the hope that people will understand both sides of the war and recognize the importance of peace.


End of the adventures…
... along the Seto Inland Sea coast. The adventures in Japan will continue!
But, anyway™, Japan offers so many options to explore that no matter how many days you have available, it will never be enough. With that in mind, I believe there is no need to rush things, after all you will never be able to explore and see everything anyway.
These 3 days of ascents and descents, of hills and mountains, of rain and wind, were a lot of fun. Highly recommended! Tokyo is cool and all, but the countryside of Japan and its not-so-touristy spots have a lot to offer too!
